Smooth installs start long before delivery day. Share this with your contractor now so rough-ins, studs, lighting, and access are all dialed in before you order. It’s the fastest way to prevent returns, delays, and surprise change-orders.
1) Rough-In Heights: “Where will the water lines and drain actually land?”
Even beautiful vanities have practical limits—drawers, back panels, and shelves define where plumbing can live.
Ask:
- Do the current supply & drain rough-ins sit inside the open back/cutout of the model I’m choosing?
- For floating vanities, will the rough-ins clear the top drawer line when mounted at the planned finished height?
- If we’re using a vessel sink or wall-mounted faucet, do we need to adjust spout/valve height?
Pro move: Pull the spec sheet for the exact model and mark the open-back zone on the wall before any tile goes up.
2) P-Trap & Drawer Clearance: “Will the trap collide with a drawer?”
Top drawers often notch around plumbing—until they don’t.
Ask:
- Will the trap arm and shut-offs clear the vanity’s drawer boxes and rails?
- Do we need a shallow P-trap or an offset tailpiece to maintain smooth drawer action?
- If the vanity has a full back, are we cutting clean, sealed openings to avoid splinters and future wobble?
3) Stud Locations for Floating Vanities: “What’s behind the drywall?”
Floating vanities feel weightless because the wall is doing the heavy lifting.
Ask:
- Where are the studs? Are they at 16” OC or irregular?
- Are we adding solid blocking (2x lumber or plywood sheet) across the full mounting width at the final height?
- Which anchors/bolts meet the manufacturer’s spec and local code for the combined weight (cabinet + top + sinks + contents)?
Pro move: Tile the floor before mounting a floating vanity for a clean line and easier future service.
4) Sconce & Junction Box Spacing: “Will the light flatter faces, not fight the mirror?”
Light placement is half science, half art.
Ask:
- Are side sconces centered about cheekbone height (often ~60–66” AFF) and spaced to frame the mirror edges (commonly ~28–36” apart depending on mirror width)?
- If using an above-mirror bar, do we have height to avoid glare and clear taller users?
- Are junction boxes positioned so shades don’t hit medicine-cabinet doors?
Pro move: Tape the mirror outline on the wall and mock-hold the fixtures—adjust before pulling wire
5) GFCI & Outlet Strategy: “Where do we plug in the real stuff?”
Outlets are easy to overlook—until the hair dryer cord crosses the sink.
Ask:
- Where will the GFCI-protected outlets go so they’re reachable but not visible clutter?
- Do we want an in-drawer or inside-cabinet outlet (per local code and UL-listed kits)?
- If adding a lighted mirror or defogger, is a switched feed planned where the manufacturer wants it?
6) Tile, Baseboard & Wall Finish: “Are we finishing behind and beneath the vanity?”
Little finish decisions create big visual payoffs.
Ask:
- Are we running floor tile under the vanity footprint (even with freestanding) for a clean perimeter line?
- Will wall tile extend behind mirrors and faucets so there’s no exposed paint sliver?
- If keeping baseboards, are we returning or scribing them neatly to the vanity legs or sides?
7) Leveling & Shims: “What’s our plan for imperfect floors and walls?”
Even new builds aren’t perfectly plumb.
Ask:
- Are the feet adjustable or do we need shims and a scribe to the wall?
- How will we conceal micro-gaps—color-matched caulk at the wall, clear silicone at tops and splashes?
- Will the countertop be set with a continuous bead to prevent water creep?
8) Lead Times, Staging & Access: “Can we actually get this into the room?”
Avoid the ‘perfect vanity, impossible staircase’ plot twist.
Ask:
- What’s the lead time and when do we need the rough room ready for delivery (dry area, path cleared)?
- Do doorways, turns, or stairs need extra hands or a drywall-off moment before install?
- Can the contractor (or two helpers) be present on delivery day to inspect and move safely?
9) Disposal & Haul-Away: “Who takes the old vanity and packaging?”
Clarity here keeps budgets honest.
Ask:
- Is removal and haul-away of the old unit included in the estimate?
- Who’s handling packaging disposal (pallet, foam, cardboard) after inspection?
- If something’s wrong on arrival, what’s our contact protocol (photos + call) before the driver leaves?
Print & Send: The 9-Point Checklist (copy into an email)
☐ Rough-ins fit the vanity’s open-back zone (incl. vessels/wall-mount taps)
☐ P-trap & shut-offs clear drawers/shelves (shallow or offset parts if needed)
☐ Floating vanity blocking & fasteners confirmed to spec
☐ Sconce boxes placed for mirror size/height; bar light clearance checked
☐ GFCI/outlet plan (incl. in-drawer/inside-cabinet, lighted mirror power)
☐ Tile/baseboard plan behind/below vanity for clean lines
☐ Leveling strategy (shims, scribe, caulk) + countertop seal plan
☐ Lead time, delivery-day helpers, and access path verified
☐ Old vanity & packaging haul-away assigned
FAQs (quick answers for common snags)
Can I hang a floating vanity on drywall without blocking?
No. Add solid blocking across the full width at the final height and use the fasteners specified for the load.
Do wall-mounted faucets work with any vanity?
They pair beautifully, but you’ll need correct valve height/depth and a vanity that keeps splash lines off the deck or uses a slightly deeper top.
Vessel sink = different rough-in?
Usually yes—drain height and spout height adjust because the rim sits above the counter. Check the model’s spec for clearance.
Can I put an outlet inside a drawer?
Often, with UL-listed in-drawer kits and local code approval. Plan wiring early and keep clearances around moving parts.
What if my walls/floor are out of level?
Use adjustable feet or shims, scribe panels for tight seams, and finish with color-matched caulk. Set tops with a continuous bead to prevent water wicking.