FAQ – Luxury Bath Retreat

Frequently asked questions

This is one of the most common questions—and one of the most important to get right! Here's our approach:

Start with your space: Measure your bathroom width and note any obstacles (doors, toilets, windows). Your vanity should have at least 2-3 inches of clearance on each side for a balanced look.

Consider your needs: Do you need double sinks? Lots of storage? Or do you prefer a cleaner, more minimalist look?

Think about proportion: A 48" vanity works beautifully in most master bathrooms. Smaller spaces (like powder rooms) often look best with 24-36" vanities. Larger master baths can accommodate 60-72" pieces.

Still unsure? Send us your bathroom dimensions and a photo if you have one—we're happy to offer personalized suggestions.

Faucet mounting type is one of those details that seems minor until you realize you've purchased incompatible components—so understanding your options before selecting both vanity and faucet prevents frustration and extra expense.

Understanding Faucet Mounting Types

Single-Hole Faucets (Single-Mount)

These faucets require only one hole drilled in the counter or sink. The spout and handle(s) are integrated into one cohesive unit that mounts through a single opening.

What they look like: Modern single-hole faucets often have a sleek, contemporary appearance with a single lever handle integrated into the base. The entire faucet occupies minimal counter space—just the footprint of the single mounting point.

Advantages:

Clean, minimalist aesthetic
Easy installation (one connection point)
Maximum counter space (small faucet footprint)
Works well with smaller sinks where multiple holes would crowd the space
Modern and contemporary look

Considerations:

Fewer traditional styles available (most lean contemporary)
Requires your sink/counter to have single-hole configuration or be un-drilled (so you can drill one hole)
Less flexibility in handle/spout positioning

Best for: Contemporary bathrooms, small sinks, minimalist designs, anyone prioritizing counter space and clean lines.

Three-Hole Faucets (Widespread)

These faucets have three separate components: spout and two handles (hot and cold). Each piece mounts through its own hole, typically spaced 8 inches on center (from handle to handle).

What they look like: This is the traditional bathroom faucet configuration you've likely seen most frequently. Two handles flank a central spout, creating a symmetrical, balanced composition. Available in extensive traditional and transitional styles, from Victorian cross-handles to classic lever designs.

Advantages:

Widest style variety (traditional, transitional, contemporary options)
Separate handle control (many people prefer independent hot/cold adjustment)
Classic, timeless appearance
Can create visual balance on larger sinks
Easy to replace individual components if one fails

Considerations:

Requires three holes in your counter/sink (standard 8-inch spacing)
Takes up more counter space than single-hole
Slightly more complex installation (three connection points)
More components means more potential points of failure (though quality faucets rarely have issues)

Best for: Traditional or transitional bathrooms, larger sinks with adequate surface area, those who prefer classic aesthetics, anyone who likes separate hot and cold control.

Four-Hole Faucets (Centerset with Side Spray)

This is a variation where you have spout, two handles, plus a side spray or soap dispenser. Less common in bathrooms than kitchens but occasionally seen in larger master bathrooms.

Most bathroom sinks don't accommodate four holes comfortably, and side sprays aren't typically necessary for bathroom tasks. If your sink has a fourth hole and you don't need it, a decorative escutcheon (cover plate) or soap dispenser can fill the space.

Wall-Mounted Faucets

These faucets mount to the wall rather than the counter, with the spout and handles (or single handle) installed on the wall above the sink.

What they look like: Sleek and modern, wall-mounted faucets create clean counter lines since nothing mounts through the counter surface. The faucet appears to float above the sink, which is particularly striking with vessel sinks or trough-style sinks.

Advantages:

Maximum counter space (absolutely nothing on the counter around the sink)
Dramatic, high-end appearance
Easier counter cleaning (no faucet base to clean around)
Works beautifully with vessel sinks and stone slab counters
Can accommodate any sink type since it's not dependent on sink hole configuration

Considerations:

Requires in-wall plumbing: This is the significant factor. Your plumber must run supply lines through the wall at the appropriate height and spacing for your specific faucet model. This means opening the wall, installing proper backing and plumbing, then repairing and finishing the wall.
Difficult to change later: Once you've installed wall-mounted plumbing, switching to a deck-mounted faucet later requires patching and refinishing the wall
Precise height critical: The faucet must be positioned at exactly the right height relative to your sink. Too low and it's awkward; too high and splashing increases. This requires careful planning.
Higher installation cost: Plan for several hundred dollars additional plumbing work beyond a standard faucet installation

Best for: Renovation projects where you're already opening walls, vessel sink installations, modern or contemporary designs, those who want to showcase a beautiful stone slab counter without holes, anyone willing to invest more for the aesthetic impact.

Matching Faucet to Sink Configuration

Your sink determines which faucet types are compatible:

Integrated sinks: Often come pre-drilled with one or three holes, though some are un-drilled (allowing you to choose). Check your specific vanity's configuration. Wall-mounted faucets also work since they don't require counter holes.

Undermount sinks: The counter determines hole configuration, not the sink itself (since the sink is underneath). You can have your fabricator drill one hole, three holes, or no holes, giving you maximum flexibility.

Vessel sinks: Often pair best with wall-mounted or tall deck-mounted faucets that provide adequate height clearance above the rim. Single-hole faucets typically work best for deck-mounting with vessel sinks since they minimize the counter footprint.

Reach and Clearance Considerations

Beyond hole configuration, consider reach and height:

Spout reach: Ensure the faucet spout extends far enough to deliver water into the center of your sink basin, but not so far that it hangs over the opposite edge. This is particularly important with vessel sinks where the basin may be small.

Spout height: For vessel sinks, you need significant height clearance—typically 8-12 inches from counter to spout. For undermount or integrated sinks, 5-7 inches is usually adequate. Too short and the faucet feels cramped; too tall and splashing increases.

Handle clearance: For three-hole faucets, ensure the handles won't hit the backsplash, mirror, or wall when rotated. This is surprisingly common with faucets installed close to walls.

Before You Purchase

If you already have a vanity/sink: Count the holes. Measure the spacing (typically 4 inches or 8 inches). This determines which faucets are compatible. If you have one hole but want a three-hole faucet (or vice versa), you'll need to replace the sink/counter or work with your configuration.

If you're purchasing vanity and faucet together: Decide which faucet style you prefer first, then ensure your vanity sink configuration accommodates it. Many vanities offer options—single-hole or three-hole configurations of the same model.

If you want wall-mounted: Verify this early in your planning. You'll need to coordinate with your plumber and ensure wall structure can accommodate the plumbing. Also select your sink first—the sink position determines where the faucet must mount on the wall.

Our Recommendation

For most bathroom renovations, three-hole widespread faucets offer the widest style variety and classic appeal. They work well in traditional, transitional, and even many contemporary spaces.

Single-hole faucets excel in modern bathrooms or small spaces where counter area is limited.

Wall-mounted faucets are worth the extra investment if you're doing a comprehensive renovation, want a high-end modern look, or are installing vessel sinks.

We're happy to suggest faucets that coordinate beautifully with any vanity you're considering, ensuring compatible mounting and proportional aesthetics. Just let us know your vanity choice and preferred style direction.

The sink configuration dramatically affects both the aesthetic and functionality of your vanity—and it's one of those decisions that shapes your daily experience in ways you might not initially anticipate.

Integrated Sinks: Seamless Simplicity

An integrated sink means the sink and countertop are one continuous piece—there's no seam between them. This is most commonly seen with quartz or cultured marble countertops where the sink basin is molded directly into the counter material.

Aesthetic: Integrated sinks create the cleanest, most seamless look possible. The uninterrupted surface is modern and minimalist, with smooth transitions that feel sculptural. They work beautifully in contemporary bathrooms where clean lines and simplicity are priorities.

Functional advantages: With no seam between sink and counter, there's nowhere for water, soap scum, or grime to accumulate. Cleaning is remarkably easy—you wipe across the entire surface without navigating around a sink rim. For busy households or anyone who values low-maintenance surfaces, this is a significant advantage.

The continuous surface also means no chance of a sink seal failing over time. There are no separate components that can loosen or leak.

Considerations: Integrated sinks offer limited shape and depth options since they're molded as part of the counter. They tend toward gentle, rounded basin shapes rather than dramatic bowl profiles. If you have specific sink depth or shape preferences, an integrated option might not accommodate them.

Replacement is also more complex—you cannot replace just the sink if damaged. You'd need to replace the entire countertop and sink unit, which is obviously more expensive than replacing a separate sink.

Best for: Modern or minimalist aesthetics, those who prioritize easy cleaning, households with children (fewer places for mess to hide), anyone who wants a low-maintenance, seamless look.

Undermount Sinks: Clean and Traditional

Undermount sinks attach beneath the countertop, creating a lip-free transition from counter to sink. The sink rim sits hidden under the counter edge.

Aesthetic: Undermount installation creates clean lines and showcases the countertop material beautifully. You see the full edge profile of your marble, quartz, or granite, which is especially appealing with premium stone. The look is refined and upscale without being overtly modern—it works equally well in traditional, transitional, and contemporary bathrooms.

Functional advantages: Like integrated sinks, undermount installation means nothing sits on top of the counter around the sink, making it easy to wipe water and debris directly into the basin. There's no rim to catch crumbs or product residue.

Undermount sinks also typically offer good depth—you can find deep basins that minimize splashing and provide ample room for washing.

Considerations: The countertop edge around an undermount sink is exposed to water constantly. With natural stone, you must maintain proper sealing to prevent water damage. Even with sealed stone or quartz, water can eventually seep between counter and sink if the installation seal fails, though this is rare with proper installation.

Undermount sinks also require a solid, substantial countertop material. You cannot undermount a sink to laminate countertops (at least not successfully long-term). This limits material options and typically increases countertop cost.

Installation complexity: Properly installing undermount sinks requires skill. The sink must be precisely positioned and securely attached to the underside of the counter with clips or adhesive, then sealed. This is not a DIY-friendly installation.

Best for: Those who want to showcase beautiful countertop material, anyone prioritizing easy cleaning, traditional or transitional bathroom styles, households that will maintain proper sealing.

Vessel Sinks: Dramatic Statement

Vessel sinks sit on top of the counter like a bowl, rather than dropping into it. The entire sink basin rises above the counter surface.

Aesthetic: Vessel sinks make statements. They're sculptural and dramatic, adding visual interest and serving as a focal point. Available in countless materials (glass, stone, ceramic, metal, concrete) and shapes (round, square, rectangular, organic forms), they offer tremendous design flexibility.

The look is distinctly contemporary, though certain materials and shapes can work in eclectic or artistic traditional spaces. If you want your sink to be a design feature rather than a practical necessity that fades into the background, vessel sinks deliver.

Functional considerations: Here's where vessel sinks become more complex.

Height: Because the basin sits on top of the counter, the overall rim height is significantly higher than other sink types—typically 5-7 inches above the counter surface. This means your vanity must be lower (28-32 inches instead of the standard 34-36 inches) to maintain comfortable sink rim height. If you install a vessel sink on a standard-height vanity, you'll feel like you're reaching up to use it—awkward for daily handwashing and teeth brushing.

Splashing: Vessel sinks, especially shallow ones, can splash water onto the counter more than deeper sinks. The faucet must be taller to arc over the rim, which means water has farther to fall, increasing splash potential. Wall-mounted faucets often work better with vessel sinks than deck-mounted ones.

Countertop water exposure: Because the sink sits on the counter, any water overflow or splashing directly contacts the countertop around the sink. This makes proper countertop sealing critical if you're using natural stone.

Cleaning: The exterior of the vessel sink is exposed and visible, meaning it requires regular cleaning along with the interior. You're essentially cleaning both inside and outside of the bowl. The area where the sink sits on the counter can also accumulate grime and requires attention.

Durability: Vessel sinks are more exposed and vulnerable to damage than recessed sinks. A heavy object dropped onto or into a vessel sink may crack or chip it more easily than an undermount sink protected by the counter rim.

Best for: Design-forward bathrooms where aesthetics drive decisions, powder rooms or guest baths where the sink sees less intensive daily use, those who love unique materials and sculptural forms, anyone willing to accept some functional trade-offs for dramatic visual impact.

Making Your Choice

Consider these factors:

Priority on aesthetics vs. function: If you prioritize a clean, easy-to-maintain sink for heavy daily use, integrated or undermount serves you better. If visual drama and design interest matter most, vessel sinks reward that priority.

Bathroom style: Modern and minimalist spaces align with integrated sinks. Traditional and transitional styles often pair beautifully with undermount. Contemporary or eclectic bathrooms can showcase vessel sinks effectively.

Vanity height: If you've already purchased a standard 34-36 inch vanity, vessel sinks become problematic. If you're choosing both vanity and sink simultaneously and want a vessel, select a lower vanity base accordingly.

Countertop material: Planning to use natural stone? Undermount or integrated sinks require proper sealing but showcase the material beautifully. Using tile or solid surface? Integrated options work seamlessly. Vessel sinks work with any countertop material.

Household use level: High-traffic family bathroom used by multiple people multiple times daily? Prioritize integrated or undermount for durability and ease. Guest bath or powder room with occasional use? Vessel sinks' functional compromises matter less.

Cleaning preferences: Hate cleaning? Integrated sinks offer the easiest maintenance. Undermount sinks are second-easiest. Vessel sinks require the most cleaning attention.

Our recommendation: For primary bathrooms with intensive daily use, we typically steer clients toward undermount or integrated sinks. They offer the best balance of aesthetics, functionality, and long-term satisfaction. For powder rooms, guest baths, or master bathrooms where design takes priority over practical concerns, vessel sinks can be stunning.

We're happy to discuss your specific situation and help you think through which option aligns with your aesthetic vision and practical needs. Photos of your bathroom and description of how you use the space help us provide targeted guidance.

Getting these measurements right before you purchase ensures your vanity functions properly and your bathroom meets building codes—preventing expensive mistakes and frustrating discoveries during installation.

Side Clearances: Space to Breathe

Your vanity shouldn't crowd against walls or other fixtures. Building codes don't specify side clearances for vanities (unlike toilets), but design best practices suggest:

Minimum side clearance: 2 inches on each side. This prevents the vanity from appearing jammed into place and allows for minor installation adjustments. It also provides space for trim or caulking along the wall.

Preferred side clearance: 3-6 inches on each side creates better visual balance and prevents the "wall-to-wall" look that can make bathrooms feel cramped. This also accommodates uneven walls without requiring extensive wall preparation.

Clearance to other fixtures: If your vanity sits adjacent to a toilet, shower, or tub, ensure at least 4-6 inches of space between fixtures. This makes cleaning easier and prevents the overcrowded feeling that results from fixtures touching or nearly touching.

If you're planning a double vanity with two separate sinks, leave 30-36 inches between sink centers. This provides each person with adequate elbow room and prevents the awkward intimacy of shoulders touching during morning routines.

Front Clearances: Space to Use Comfortably

This is where building codes become specific, and for good reason:

Minimum front clearance: 21 inches from the front edge of the vanity to any obstruction (opposite wall, shower door, toilet). This is often cited as the building code minimum, but it's tight—barely functional for most adults.

Comfortable front clearance: 30 inches provides adequate space for one person to stand and use the vanity comfortably. You can bend forward to wash your face without hitting the opposite wall.

Generous front clearance: 36-42 inches feels spacious, allows drawers to open fully without hitting obstructions, and provides room for two people to move past each other. If your bathroom dimensions allow, this creates a noticeably more comfortable experience.

Door swing considerations: Don't forget to account for door swing. If your bathroom door opens inward, ensure it doesn't hit the vanity or someone standing at the vanity. Either leave adequate clearance or consider changing to an outward-opening or pocket door.

Drawer and Cabinet Clearances

This is frequently overlooked until installation day:

Full drawer extension: Measure how far your vanity's drawers extend when fully opened. Some drawers extend only 3/4 of their depth, while quality soft-close drawers often extend fully. If you have a narrow bathroom, ensure opened drawers don't block passage or hit the opposite wall.

Cabinet door swing: If your vanity has doors that open outward, verify they can open fully without hitting the toilet, tub, or opposite wall. Particularly watch for the 90-degree swing point—doors often need to open at least 90 degrees for comfortable access.

Adjacent fixture interference: If your toilet sits beside your vanity, ensure the vanity cabinet door or drawer doesn't hit the toilet when opened. This is surprisingly common with 24-inch vanities in small bathrooms where the toilet sits close.

Height Considerations

Overhead clearance: Ensure no overhead obstacles (lights, medicine cabinets, sloped ceilings) interfere with standing at the vanity. Allow at least 80 inches of clear height above the floor at the vanity position.

Mirror and medicine cabinet height: If you're adding a mirror or medicine cabinet above the vanity, leave 4-6 inches between the faucet and the bottom of the mirror. This provides backsplash space and prevents water splashing onto the mirror.

Light fixture position: Vanity lights should typically install 75-80 inches from the floor, providing eye-level task lighting. Verify your vanity height plus mirror height allows proper light positioning.

Special Situations

Corner vanities: When placing a vanity in a corner, ensure adequate clearance on the open side for comfortable use. You'll need the standard front clearance on the accessible side.

Angled or floating walls: In bathrooms with angled walls or architectural features, carefully measure the available width at the wall where the vanity will attach, at the vanity's front edge, and at any intermediate points. Ensure your vanity fits not just at one depth but throughout its profile.

Wheelchair accessibility: If designing for wheelchair access, codes require:

30 inches wide x 48 inches deep clear floor space in front of the vanity
Knee clearance underneath: 27 inches high, 30 inches wide, 19 inches deep
Sink rim maximum height of 34 inches

Pre-Purchase Measurement Process

Before ordering your vanity:

Measure your wall space: Record the width available, noting any obstacles (light switches, outlets, wall protrusions).
Measure front clearance: Determine the space from wall to the nearest obstruction (opposite wall, toilet, tub edge).
Map your fixtures: Create a rough overhead sketch showing the toilet, shower/tub, door swing, and available vanity space.
Consider plumbing location: Note where your current water supply and drain are located. Moving these is possible but adds cost.
Account for base molding: If you have baseboards, either plan to remove them behind the vanity or ensure your vanity width accounts for their projection.
Photograph everything: Take photos from multiple angles. These help us suggest appropriate vanities and identify potential issues before purchase.

Testing the Fit

Before committing to a vanity, use painter's tape to outline the vanity footprint on your floor and the approximate height on the wall. Live with this outline for a day or two. Walk through your bathroom routine. Does the space feel adequate? Can you easily access other fixtures? Do doors and drawers have room to function?

This simple exercise catches issues that measurements alone might miss—like realizing the vanity blocks your preferred pathway through the bathroom or that the configuration feels more cramped than imagined.

When Space Is Tight

If measurements reveal your space is limited:

Consider a smaller vanity: Sometimes downsizing from 36" to 30" or from 48" to 42" makes the difference between cramped and comfortable.

Choose a floating vanity: The open floor space beneath creates visual spaciousness that eases the cramped feeling.

Opt for wall-mounted faucets: These eliminate the faucet footprint on the counter and can make a small vanity feel larger.

Eliminate unnecessary fixtures: Do you really need that rarely-used second sink? A single sink vanity might provide better storage and comfort.

We're always happy to review your bathroom measurements and photos to suggest vanities that will fit beautifully. Taking the time to verify these clearances before purchasing prevents the disappointment of receiving a vanity that doesn't quite work in your space.

Vanity height is surprisingly personal, and getting it right makes a meaningful difference in your daily comfort, yet it's something many people don't consider until after installation.

Standard Height: The Historical Context

The traditional bathroom vanity height is 30-32 inches from floor to countertop. This standard comes from the era when bathroom vanities were adapted from bedroom furniture, dressers and washstands designed for use with a basin and pitcher. People were also generally shorter a century ago, so this height made sense.

However, this "standard" often feels too low for modern users. Try this experiment: stand at a typical bathroom vanity and notice how much you have to bend to wash your hands or brush your teeth. That forward lean can cause back strain over time, and it's completely unnecessary.

Comfort Height: The Modern Standard

The trend in modern bathroom design has shifted toward "comfort height" vanities at 34-36 inches. This aligns more closely with kitchen counter height (36 inches) and is significantly more ergonomic for most adults.

At comfort height, you can stand more naturally upright while using the sink, reducing strain on your lower back during the multiple daily interactions with your vanity. This is especially valuable for tall individuals who have been contorting themselves at standard-height vanities their entire lives.

The 34-36 inch range works well for most adults, but your ideal height depends on your personal height and how you use your vanity:

For individuals 5'8" and taller: 36 inches often feels ideal. You can stand comfortably upright while using the sink without hunching forward.

For individuals 5'2" to 5'8": 34-35 inches typically provides a good balance. You maintain comfortable posture without feeling like you're reaching up.

For individuals under 5'2": 32-33 inches might feel more natural, though many shorter individuals still prefer slightly higher vanities because they'd rather reach up slightly than bend forward.

Special Considerations

Children in the household: If you have young children, a step stool solves the height issue temporarily. Don't compromise on long-term comfort for a few years of childhood. Children grow, and they're adaptable. A comfortable adult height is the wiser choice.

Vessel sinks: If you're planning a vessel sink (one that sits on top of the counter rather than dropping in), remember that it adds 4-6 inches to the overall height. In this case, you'll want a lower vanity base—typically 30-32 inches, so that the rim of the sink ends up at a comfortable 36-38 inches.

Undermount or integrated sinks: These sit at or below the countertop surface, so the counter height equals the sink height. Standard comfort height works well here.

Multiple users of varying heights: This requires compromise. We generally recommend optimizing for the primary user's height, or choosing a middle ground. The person who uses the vanity most frequently should be comfortable.

Accessibility needs: For wheelchair users or others with specific accessibility requirements, vanities can be installed at custom heights (typically lower) with knee clearance underneath. Wall-mounted vanities are ideal for this application since they can be installed at any height.

Customization Options

Most vanities come in fixed heights, but you have options:

Freestanding vanities: Can be installed on a raised platform if you want extra height. A skilled installer can build a custom platform that looks intentional and finished. This adds 2-4 inches relatively easily.

Wall-mounted vanities: Offer the most flexibility since they can be installed at any height you choose. This is one of their significant advantages if you have specific height preferences.

Custom vanities: Can be built to exact specifications, though this obviously increases cost significantly.

Adjustable feet: Some vanities include adjustable legs that provide 1-2 inches of height adjustment, useful for accommodating uneven floors or fine-tuning the height.

Our Recommendation

Before you purchase, do a simple test. Find a surface at 34 inches, 36 inches, and 38 inches (kitchen counters, tables, desks) and simulate washing your hands or brushing your teeth at each height. Which feels most natural? Where do you find yourself standing most upright?

If you're between heights, consider how you use your vanity. If you frequently do detailed tasks like applying makeup or shaving, you might prefer slightly lower for better control. If you primarily use it for quick hand washing and tooth brushing, slightly higher often feels better.

This is one of those details that seems minor until you live with it daily. Taking the time to determine your ideal height pays dividends in comfort over the many years you'll use your vanity.

This question reveals a common anxiety about design "rules" and we're here to liberate you from unnecessary restrictions while still helping you create a cohesive, beautiful space.

The Short Answer

You absolutely can mix finishes, and when done thoughtfully, mixing creates depth, interest, and a more custom-designed look than perfectly matched finishes throughout.

Understanding Finish Coordination

The key concept is coordination, not matching. Think about how you dress: you don't wear a navy suit with navy shoes, navy belt, navy tie, and navy shirt. That would be monotonous. Instead, you coordinate—perhaps navy suit, brown leather shoes and belt, white shirt, complementary tie. The finishes work together through intentional contrast and relationship.

The same principle applies to bathroom finishes.

Approaches to Mixing Finishes

The Two-Finish Rule: A reliable starting point is selecting two finishes and using them strategically throughout the bathroom. For example:

Primary finish: Brushed nickel on widespread use items (faucets, shower fixtures, towel bars)
Accent finish: Matte black on smaller details (cabinet hardware, light fixtures, mirror frame)

This creates visual interest while maintaining cohesion. The primary finish provides consistency; the accent finish adds personality.

Warm vs. Cool Distinction: Another successful approach separates finishes by temperature:

Cool finishes: Chrome, polished nickel, brushed nickel, stainless steel
Warm finishes: Brass, bronze, gold, copper

Choose either warm or cool as your palette and stay within that temperature range. You can mix a brushed brass faucet with oil-rubbed bronze cabinet hardware because they're both warm tones. But mixing chrome faucets with brass hardware often feels disjointed because of the temperature contrast.

The Intentional Contrast Method: For more confident designers, deliberate contrast can be stunning. Matte black faucets with brass cabinet hardware and chrome shower fixtures can work—but this requires a strong design vision and careful balance. Generally, this approach works best when:

You're working with a designer who can visualize the complete picture
You're choosing finishes that have similar visual weight (all matte finishes, or all polished finishes)
You're limiting yourself to three finishes maximum
The finishes appear in balanced proportions throughout the space

What Typically Works Well Together

Some finish combinations are naturally harmonious:

Brushed nickel + matte black: This pairing has become increasingly popular because it balances warm-leaning nickel with the graphic strength of black. It works in transitional and modern bathrooms beautifully.

Chrome + polished nickel: These cool-toned finishes are similar enough to feel cohesive but different enough to create subtle interest. This is a safe choice for traditional bathrooms.

Brass + bronze: Both warm finishes that complement each other nicely, especially in traditional or vintage-inspired bathrooms.

Matte black + brass: A sophisticated combination that works well in modern, industrial, or eclectic bathrooms. The warm brass softens the stark black.

Brushed gold + white/cream fixtures: Creates a luxurious but not overly formal feeling, working well in contemporary and glam-style bathrooms.

Where to Use Which Finish

If you're mixing finishes, consider this hierarchy:

Largest finish presence (primary): Shower fixtures, tub filler, sink faucets—these are high-visibility, high-use items. Choose a finish that will age well and that you genuinely love, because you'll interact with it multiple times daily.

Medium finish presence (can be secondary): Cabinet hardware (drawer pulls, knobs), towel bars, toilet paper holders. These create pattern and repetition, so if you're introducing an accent finish, hardware is an ideal place.

Smallest finish presence (ideal for accents): Light fixtures, mirror frames, decorative accessories. These can introduce a third finish if desired, or reinforce one of your primary finishes.

What to Avoid

Too many finishes: More than three finishes typically feels chaotic rather than curated. Each additional finish divides visual attention and reduces cohesion.

Competing for dominance: If you choose two very bold finishes (like polished brass and polished chrome), they can compete visually. Balance bold with subtle.

Ignoring undertones: Pay attention to undertones in your finishes. Some "brushed nickel" finishes lean warm, others cool. Some "oil-rubbed bronze" finishes are deeply brown, others nearly black. Sample finishes in your actual bathroom lighting before committing.

Period inconsistency: Mixing ornate Victorian brass fixtures with ultra-modern matte black hardware can feel confused unless you're deliberately going for an eclectic look. Consider whether your finish choices support your overall design style.

Our Recommendation

Start by choosing your sink faucet: this is typically the most prominent fixture in your sightline. Select a finish you love. Then consider whether you want a monochromatic look (everything in that finish) or a coordinated mix.

If mixing, choose one accent finish that complements your primary choice and use it strategically on 30-40% of your fixtures and hardware. This creates interest without chaos.

When in doubt, bring physical samples home. Many manufacturers and showrooms provide finish samples. View them in your actual bathroom lighting (which is crucial, finishes look different in fluorescent showroom lights versus the warm LED lighting you might have at home).

Remember, this is your sanctuary. If you love the combination and it makes you happy when you walk into your bathroom, you've made the right choice, regardless of whether it follows conventional "rules."

This is one of those questions where the answer depends entirely on your specific situation, but we can help you think through what "enough storage" means for your household.

Conducting a Storage Audit

Before selecting a vanity, take inventory of what you currently store in your bathroom:

Daily essentials: Toothbrushes, toothpaste, face wash, lotion, hand soap, hair brushes, styling tools (hair dryers, straighteners, curling irons), shaving supplies, medications taken daily, contact lens supplies.

Occasional items: Backup toiletries, first aid supplies, extra soap and tissue, cleaning supplies, feminine hygiene products, nail care items, special occasion cosmetics.

Towels and linens: How many hand towels do you keep? Do you store bath towels in the bathroom or a linen closet elsewhere?

Personal care electronics: Hair dryer, electric toothbrush, electric razor, water flosser. These often require outlets and convenient storage.

Now assess your current storage situation. Do you have items on countertops that you'd prefer hidden? Are you using storage solutions outside the vanity (medicine cabinets, over-toilet organizers, baskets under the sink) that you'd like to eliminate?

Understanding Storage Types

Different vanity configurations offer different storage personalities:

Drawer-dominant vanities (three or more drawers): These excel at organized storage. You can designate drawers by category, daily items in the top drawer, backups in middle drawers, towels or less-used items in the bottom. Drawers keep items contained, prevent the jumbled mess that cabinets can become, and make everything easily accessible. If you have many small items (cosmetics, hair accessories, grooming tools), drawer storage is often superior.

Cabinet-dominant vanities (doors with interior shelving): These provide flexibility for storing larger items: tall bottles, baskets, cleaning supplies, hair dryers. However, cabinet interiors can become disorganized without intentional organization systems. You'll likely want to add drawer organizers, lazy susans, or pull-out shelves to maximize cabinet utility.

Combination vanities (mix of drawers and cabinets): Often the most versatile. Top drawers for daily small items, cabinet below for bulk storage and larger items. This configuration accommodates diverse storage needs well.

Open shelf vanities: These provide minimal concealed storage, working best when you either have storage elsewhere (medicine cabinets, linen closets) or when you prefer the aesthetic of minimal, curated items. Attractive baskets can add storage while maintaining the open look.

Storage Space Guidelines

Here's a rough framework based on bathroom type and users:

Powder room/guest bath (minimal daily use): You need relatively little storage, hand soap, a few hand towels, perhaps backup toilet paper. A small vanity with one drawer or a simple cabinet is usually sufficient. Focus more on aesthetics than storage capacity.

Hall bath (occasional use, guests): Moderate storage needs. One or two drawers plus a cabinet can accommodate guest toiletries, cleaning supplies, extra towels, and basics. If this bathroom serves as a guest bath primarily, consider what would make guests comfortable—space for their toiletry bag, hair dryer access, fresh towels.

Single person master bath: Your needs vary dramatically based on how many products you use. Minimalists may thrive with two or three drawers. Product enthusiasts (extensive skincare routines, multiple hair styling tools, significant makeup collections) might need a vanity with four or more drawers plus cabinet space.

Shared master bath (two people): This often requires the most storage since you're accommodating two complete sets of daily essentials. Consider vanities with:

Minimum of 60" width to provide each person with designated space
At least four drawers (ideally six or more)
Cabinet space for shared items and backups
Separate drawer stacks on each side of the sink for territorial organization

If both people have extensive product collections, you might even consider a double vanity (two separate sink stations) where each person has their own complete storage system.

Family bathroom (multiple children): Children's bathrooms require different storage thinking. You need:

Lower drawers accessible to children for their items
Higher cabinets for items you want out of children's reach (medications, cleaning supplies)
Durable storage that withstands rough handling
Preferably soft-close drawers (prevents slamming and pinched fingers)
Enough space for each child to have designated areas (reduces fighting over space)

Specialized Storage Considerations

Electrical outlets: If you use a hair dryer, straightener, or electric toothbrush, consider vanities with built-in electrical outlets inside drawers. This allows you to keep devices plugged in and hidden, eliminating countertop cord clutter.

Hair tool storage: Hot tools need storage that allows heat dissipation. Some vanities include metal-lined drawers specifically for this. Otherwise, you'll need countertop space or separate heat-resistant storage.

Tall item accommodation: Curling irons, hair spray bottles, and tall skincare bottles need vertical space. Ensure at least one cabinet or deep drawer can accommodate items 12-14 inches tall.

Plumbing intrusion: Remember that sink plumbing occupies some of your under-sink space. Vanities with offset plumbing or drawers flanking the sink provide more usable storage than centered sinks with cabinets directly below.

Making Your Decision

Consider three scenarios:

Minimum storage: What's the absolute least you could function with if you were ruthless about decluttering and moved some storage elsewhere?
Comfortable storage: What amount of storage lets you keep everything you use regularly easily accessible?
Generous storage: What amount allows you to store items with room to grow, accommodate seasonal changes, and never feel cramped?

Aim for somewhere between comfortable and generous. Bathrooms tend to accumulate items over time, so building in extra capacity prevents future frustration.

Finally, remember that storage isn't just about quantity—it's about usability. A vanity with four well-designed, organized drawers often provides more functional storage than a vanity with a huge but poorly configured cabinet that becomes a jumbled mess.

If you're unsure, we're happy to talk through your specific storage needs and suggest vanities that match your lifestyle. The investment in adequate, well-organized storage pays dividends in daily ease and a clutter-free countertop.

This is one of the most common questions we hear, and the good news is that most bathrooms can accommodate a larger vanity without extensive plumbing renovation, but there are important considerations and limitations to understand.

Understanding Your Plumbing Configuration

Most bathroom vanities have a relatively standard plumbing setup:

Water supply lines: Two pipes (hot and cold) emerge from the wall, typically 3-6 inches above the floor and approximately 4 inches on either side of the drain centerline.

Drain: A drainpipe exits the wall, typically 16-20 inches above the floor, centered horizontally.

The key insight is that you don't need to match your new vanity's sink position exactly to your old plumbing location. Flexible supply lines and offset drain configurations provide significant adaptability.

Sizing Up: What Works Easily

Increasing width: This is usually the easiest dimension to change. If you currently have a 36-inch vanity, upgrading to a 48-inch or even 60-inch vanity rarely requires plumbing changes. Here's why:

Most sinks center on the vanity (or divide equally for double sinks). When you increase vanity width, the sink position might shift left or right a few inches, but flexible supply lines easily accommodate this offset. These braided stainless lines can route at angles and around obstacles, connecting supply valves to faucets even when not perfectly aligned.

Similarly, drain position can offset several inches left or right using angled P-trap configurations. Your plumber can adjust the P-trap assembly to accommodate the new drain location without cutting into walls.

Limitations on width: You obviously need adequate wall space. Measure carefully, accounting for door swings, light switches, and adjacent fixtures (toilets, tubs, showers). Also ensure you maintain minimum clearances required by building code (discussed in another FAQ).

Changing depth: Vanities typically range from 18 to 24 inches deep (front to back). Moving from a 21-inch vanity to a 24-inch vanity is usually fine—the plumbing still connects properly since it emerges from the wall behind the vanity.

However, consider front clearance. If your bathroom is narrow, adding 3 inches of depth might reduce your front clearance uncomfortably. Measure the distance from your current vanity front to any obstruction (opposite wall, toilet, shower door) and ensure you'll still have at least 30 inches of clearance.

Going from single to double sink: This is more complex but often achievable without major plumbing changes if:

Your existing plumbing is relatively centered on the wall space
You add a double vanity with sinks spaced reasonably close to center
You're willing to have slightly asymmetric plumbing (one sink might have very short supply lines, the other slightly longer)

The second sink will need its own drain, which your plumber can tap into the existing drain line or route to a secondary drain location. Supply lines can split from the existing supply valves using tee fittings.

What Requires Replumbing

Sometimes plumbing changes are necessary:

Moving the vanity to a different wall: If you're relocating your vanity to a wall that doesn't currently have plumbing, you'll need new supply and drain lines run to that location. This is the most extensive scenario, requiring opening walls, running pipes, and repairs.

Significantly changing height: If your current drain exits the wall very high (20+ inches) and you want a floating vanity where the drain needs to be lower, modifications might be necessary. Similarly, moving to a vessel sink (which requires higher plumbing) might need adjustments.

Old galvanized steel pipes: If your home has old galvanized pipes (common in homes built before 1970), this might be an opportunity to replace supply lines with modern PEX or copper. While not strictly necessary to accommodate a larger vanity, it's preventive maintenance that avoids future leaks.

Drain pipe incompatibility: Occasionally, old vanity drains are odd sizes or configurations that don't work with modern P-traps. Your plumber can adapt these, but it adds complexity.

Wall-mounted faucets: If you currently have deck-mounted faucets (coming through the countertop) and want to switch to wall-mounted faucets, this requires new wall penetrations at the appropriate height and spacing for your faucet model. Not impossible, but definitely beyond "simple" installation.

The Practical Installation Process

Here's what typically happens when installing a larger vanity with existing plumbing:

Remove old vanity: The old vanity comes out, exposing existing supply valves and drain.
Assess plumbing location: Your plumber evaluates where supply and drain need to connect on the new vanity.
Install new supply lines: Flexible braided supply lines connect from existing shut-off valves to the new faucet location. These can bend and route around obstacles within reason.
Configure drain: The P-trap assembly is adjusted—potentially using an offset configuration—to connect the sink drain to the existing drainpipe. Some rotation left or right is easily accommodated.
Test connections: Everything is tested for leaks before the vanity is fully secured.

This process typically takes 2-4 hours for an experienced plumber, sometimes less if the configuration is straightforward.

Cost Implications

No plumbing changes needed (flexible lines accommodate the offset): Installation cost typically includes the plumber's time to disconnect old vanity, install new vanity, and connect plumbing. This might run $300-600 depending on your location and complexity.

Minor adjustments needed (new P-trap configuration, extended supply lines): Add $100-200 for materials and additional time.

Moderate changes (relocating supply valves a few inches, accessing wall to adjust drain height): Add $300-500.

Major replumbing (moving vanity to different wall, extensive pipe replacement): $800-1500+, depending on extent of work.

Before You Purchase

Take clear photos of:

Your current vanity from the front
The area where you plan to install the new vanity
Behind and below your current vanity (if you can see the plumbing)
The full bathroom showing spatial relationships

Note your current vanity dimensions and the dimensions of the vanity you're considering.

Send these to us or share them with your plumber. We can help identify whether your desired vanity is likely to install easily or whether you should anticipate additional plumbing work.

Our Recommendation

Most homeowners can successfully upgrade to a larger vanity without major plumbing changes. The flexibility of modern supply lines and drain configurations accommodates most reasonable dimensional shifts.

However, set realistic expectations with your installer before beginning work. An experienced plumber can assess your situation in minutes and tell you whether it's a straightforward installation or whether additional work is needed.

The investment in a properly sized vanity—one that truly meets your storage and functional needs—is almost always worthwhile, even if it requires minor plumbing adjustments. You'll interact with your vanity multiple times daily for many years. Getting it right matters more than avoiding a few hundred dollars in installation costs.

This is one of the most common questions we receive, and it's an important one: your countertop choice affects both aesthetics and daily maintenance for years to come.

Natural Marble: The Romantic Choice

Marble has graced elegant bathrooms for centuries, and there's a reason. Each piece is genuinely unique, with veining patterns that tell the story of how the stone formed over millennia. Carrara marble, the most popular choice for bathroom vanities, offers soft gray veining on a white background that brings a sense of European elegance and timeless sophistication.

The appeal of marble goes beyond looks. It's naturally cool to the touch—a quality that feels luxurious when you rest your hands on it during your morning routine. It develops a subtle patina over time, a soft aging that many homeowners find adds character rather than detracts from beauty. Think of it like a leather bag that becomes more beautiful with age.

However, marble requires a relationship. It's a natural stone, which means it's porous and can stain if acidic substances (like certain cosmetics, perfumes, or cleaning products) sit on it too long. You'll need to seal it annually: a simple 10-minute task with stone sealer, but one you cannot skip. You'll also want to wipe up spills promptly and avoid harsh cleaners.

If you're someone who loves natural materials, appreciates the uniqueness of natural variation, and doesn't mind a bit of maintenance, marble rewards you with unmatched beauty and that authentic luxury feel.

Soft-close drawer mechanisms might seem like a luxury detail, but once you experience them, they become a necessity you'll notice in every bathroom.

How They Work

Soft-close mechanisms use a hydraulic or pneumatic damper system integrated into the drawer glide. When you close a drawer, the mechanism engages in the last few inches of travel, catching the drawer and gently pulling it closed at a controlled speed. Instead of slamming shut, the drawer glides to a peaceful, quiet close.

The technology is remarkably simple yet effective. A small piston and cylinder filled with oil or air creates resistance that slows the closing motion. Quality soft-close systems can handle thousands of cycles (10,000-50,000+ closings) before showing any wear, which translates to many years of reliable use.

Why They Transform Your Experience

The benefits extend beyond the obvious "no slamming" advantage:

Peace and quiet: If you share a bathroom with a partner, soft-close drawers mean you can access your items early in the morning or late at night without the jarring bang of a closing drawer. This small consideration becomes significant when you live with it daily.

Protection: Slamming drawers damages both the drawer box and the contents inside. Soft-close mechanisms protect your vanity's joinery from the repeated stress of impact, extending the life of your furniture. They also protect delicate items stored inside—no more broken cosmetic compacts or rattling bottles.

Refined experience: There's something about soft-close mechanisms that simply feels more luxurious. It's the difference between a car door that thuds shut with a solid feeling versus one that clangs. These small tactile experiences shape how we feel about the quality of objects we interact with daily.

Safety: For households with children, soft-close drawers eliminate pinched fingers. The mechanism prevents drawers from closing too quickly, giving little hands time to move.

Longevity indicator: Soft-close hardware is typically found only on quality vanities. Manufacturers who invest in soft-close mechanisms usually also invest in other quality components—dovetail joints, solid wood construction, quality finishes. It's a reliable indicator that you're looking at a well-made piece.

When you're comparing vanities, test the drawer action. Quality soft-close should engage smoothly, close consistently at the same speed regardless of how hard you push, and feel substantial rather than flimsy. If a vanity has soft-close on drawers, also check cabinet doors—many quality pieces include soft-close hinges on doors as well, creating a consistently refined experience throughout.

This is one of those features you don't know you need until you have it—and then you notice its absence everywhere else.

When we describe a vanity as having "dovetail drawer construction," we're pointing to one of the most reliable indicators of furniture quality, the kind of detail that separates investment pieces from disposable furniture.

Understanding Dovetail Joints

A dovetail joint is a woodworking technique that's been used for centuries, found in everything from ancient Egyptian furniture to fine antique dressers. The joint connects two pieces of wood at right angles (like the sides and front of a drawer) using interlocking "pins" and "tails" that look like a dove's tail feathers, hence the name.

When you look at a drawer with dovetail construction, you'll see a series of trapezoidal protrusions on one piece that fit precisely into corresponding cutouts on the adjoining piece. This creates an incredibly strong mechanical bond.

Why This Construction Method Matters

The genius of dovetail joints is that they resist pulling apart through mechanical interlock, not just glue. When you open a drawer, you're creating a pulling force. Cheap drawer construction relies primarily on staples, nails, or glue, methods that weaken over time, especially in humid bathroom environments where wood expands and contracts.

Dovetail joints actually get stronger under tension. The physics are elegant: as you pull on the drawer front, the dovetail pins want to wedge more tightly into their sockets. This means a properly constructed dovetail drawer can last decades, even generations, with regular use.

English Dovetails vs. French Dovetails

You might see these terms in product descriptions:

English (or through) dovetails are visible on the outside of the drawer: you can see the end grain of the pins. This is traditional, honest construction that shows the craftsmanship. Many people love the look because it's authentic and showcases the joinery.

French (or half-blind) dovetails are concealed: the pins don't show through to the front of the drawer. This creates a cleaner aesthetic where you only see solid wood grain on the drawer front. It requires more skill to cut but provides the same strength.

Both are excellent. The choice is purely aesthetic.

What to Look For

When evaluating drawer construction, you might also encounter:

Dowel joints: Round wooden pegs connecting pieces. Decent for light use but not as strong as dovetails.

Stapled or nailed construction: The bottom tier. These drawers fail relatively quickly, especially with regular use and humidity exposure.

Metal brackets or L-brackets: Often found in budget furniture. Functional but inelegant and prone to loosening.

High-quality bathroom vanities almost always feature dovetail drawer construction because bathrooms present unique challenges: humidity, temperature fluctuations, and daily use. The dovetail joint handles these stresses gracefully.

If you're comparing two vanities and one has dovetail construction while the other doesn't mention it, that's a strong indicator of quality difference. Manufacturers who invest in dovetail joinery are signaling that they're building furniture to last, not furniture to be replaced in five years.

When you open the drawer of a vanity you're considering, look at the corners where sides meet the front. If you see those distinctive interlocking fingers of wood, you're looking at quality construction that will serve you well for many years.

This is one of the most fundamental design decisions you'll make, and it affects not just aesthetics but also functionality, installation requirements, and even how you clean your bathroom. Let's explore both options thoroughly.

Freestanding Vanities: Traditional Elegance

Freestanding vanities sit on the floor like a piece of furniture—which is essentially what they are. They evoke a sense of permanence and substance, anchoring your bathroom with visual weight.

Aesthetic advantages: Freestanding vanities tend to feel more traditional and furniture-like, which works beautifully in bathrooms aiming for classic elegance, farmhouse charm, or transitional style. They can accommodate decorative feet, detailed molding, and other furniture details that add character. If you love the look of antique dressers converted into vanities, a freestanding piece captures that aesthetic more naturally.

Practical advantages: These vanities typically offer more storage because they can utilize the full footprint from floor to countertop. You'll find more drawer and cabinet space in a freestanding vanity compared to a wall-mounted piece of the same width. They're also more forgiving during installation—minor floor irregularities can be shimmed, and you don't need perfectly located studs.

Installation is more straightforward and less expensive. While you should still secure the vanity to the wall for safety (preventing it from tipping), it doesn't require the structural support that floating vanities demand. This means more installers are comfortable with the work, potentially saving you money.

Considerations: Freestanding vanities make floor cleaning more challenging since you have to navigate around the base. They can make a small bathroom feel more enclosed because they occupy floor space visually. And if you ever need to access plumbing for repairs, you might need to work around or through the vanity structure.

Floating Vanities: Modern Sophistication

Wall-mounted vanities attach directly to the wall with no floor contact, creating that coveted floating appearance that defines modern bathroom design.

Aesthetic advantages: The floating look creates visual lightness that can make small bathrooms feel more spacious. The open floor space beneath the vanity allows sight lines to extend further, reducing the visual clutter that can make bathrooms feel cramped. This style works exceptionally well in modern, contemporary, and minimalist designs. It also showcases beautiful tile or flooring that would otherwise be hidden.

The clean lines and lack of decorative base create a streamlined look that many homeowners find more spa-like and serene. If you're going for that boutique hotel aesthetic, floating vanities are often the choice.

Practical advantages: Floor cleaning becomes dramatically easier—you can sweep and mop right under the vanity. This might seem minor until you live with it; the ease of maintenance is genuinely appreciated over time. For homeowners with mobility concerns, floating vanities can be installed at custom heights to accommodate wheelchair access or other specific needs.

The open area beneath also provides a natural place to store step stools for children or attractive baskets for extra towels, creating display and storage opportunities that feel intentional rather than cluttered.

Considerations: Installation is more complex and costly. The vanity must be secured to wall studs with heavy-duty mounting hardware rated for significant weight. Your walls must be capable of supporting the vanity's weight plus the countertop, plus the stress of daily use. If you have old plaster walls or walls without adequate blocking, you might need additional structural work.

Floating vanities typically offer less storage since they're often designed with cleaner, simpler profiles. You lose the full-depth cabinet space that freestanding vanities can provide. And the plumbing—supply lines and drain—is more visible unless specifically designed to be concealed within the wall or vanity structure.

Making Your Decision

Consider your bathroom's style first. Is it traditional, transitional, or modern? Freestanding vanities harmonize with traditional and transitional styles, while floating vanities excel in modern and contemporary spaces.

Think about your priorities. If maximum storage matters most, lean toward freestanding. If ease of cleaning and visual spaciousness are priorities, consider floating.

Evaluate your budget for installation. Factor in not just the vanity cost but also installation complexity. Floating vanities typically cost $300-800 more to install due to the structural requirements.

Consider the long-term. How long do you plan to stay in this home? Freestanding vanities are easier to replace or relocate. Floating vanities are more permanent—removing one leaves mounting hardware and filled holes that require wall repair.

Both options can be absolutely beautiful. The best choice aligns with your aesthetic preferences, functional needs, and installation realities. If you're still uncertain, we're happy to discuss your specific bathroom and help you think through which option serves your vision best.